Presented on Friday, March 1, at the Museum of Immigration History at Palais de la Porte Dorée in Paris, the ISSEY MIYAKE Autumn Winter 2024/25 collection, What Has Always Been examines the origin of clothing the human body with a piece of cloth, creating a collection inspired by this intrinsic act.
The act of clothing the human body is something that predates garment making. Engagement in this act leads to a discovery of drapery, layering, folding and twisting, and asymmetrical composition, as well as ma (the unfilled space) and playfulness—all resulting in clothing in its most natural form with little manipulation. A piece of clothing created in this manner transcends the notion of a garment. The final form of this creation is fluid and flexible, favoring the wearer. A collection of clothing like this is not defined by certain eras or contexts, but is developed from this act that is primitive and universal, and always evokes a sense of originality.
ENVISION is a woven series of sculptural forms made out of a piece of cloth. The fabric is a development from a washi blend fiber presented at the Spring Summer 2024 show, offering a light texture that is dry to the touch. The shapes are based on a series of initial studies of forms created by wrapping a piece of cloth around a torso. This light fabric is woven with washi and stretch fibers, giving the garment a soft feel while holding its volume, as it drapes naturally around the wearer’s body.
ENCLOTHE PANTS is a series made of a fabric that combines the softness of triacetate and the stiffness of linen. The asymmetrical silhouette of the pants is made from a square pattern that utilizes the width of the fabric, inspired by the primitive act of clothing the body with a piece of fabric.
ASAGAO is a knit series inspired and shaped from the form of the flower. The bodice and sleeves are rib-knit, while the flower-like shapes at the cuffs and hem are garter-knit, adding a lively three-dimensional effect to the tubular structure. The colors that gradually change toward the cuffs and hem are created by combining three different colored yarns. The sleeves can be wrapped around the neck and body, or worn like a hat for a touch of playfulness.
