According to the press release by ISSEY MIYAKE, the ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2024 Collection was presented on Friday, September 29 at Césure in Paris, Grasping the Formless seeks to represent elements in nature, like wind and light, that do not have definite shapes and incorporate them—as well as the serendipitous, ephemeral phenomena they bring about—into the design and making of the garments. This exploration of these elements, undefined and changing as they are, works hand in hand with the approach of allowing fluidity in the clothing. By engaging with the resulting genuine forms, the collection brings about a new aesthetic that speaks to and resonates with each wearer.

The presentation of the collection is an interdisciplinary experience inspired by the collection theme. The installation at the venue is composed of pleated pieces of washi paper, made of natural fibers, floating in the air. Like membranes, the pieces move and transform as they respond to the cast as well as the surroundings, echoing the relationship between a piece of cloth and the wearer clothed in it. The skilled performers open the show by interacting with the installation, as if calling out to each other, through a dynamic exchange of sound and dance. The ensuing runway embodies the collection theme with looks abstract at first, gradually developing into something structured and formal, engaging the audience in the synergy between the washi paper, the sound, and the ever-changing cast.

AMBIGUOUS is a knit series that reveals the form of the body, while respecting the materiality of the high twist cotton yarn. The front panel is knitted with yarn twisted in the same direction, naturally forming a gentle drape of soft folds. The back panel of ribbing hugs the body as it frames the twisting drapery. The construction of this tubular form adapts to every wearer, leading to the ambiguity of the silhouette.

TWINING is a woven series inspired by a flag fluttering in the sky. The fabric is light yet firm to hold the crisp twists, whose lightweight, voluminous texture is made possible by a special weaving technique that leaves minute gaps in the warp.

LIGHT LEAK is a print series featuring blurred forms of gradients in simple silhouettes with minimal seams. The prints are each created by deliberately exposing the film of a camera. The particles of the original photographs can still be found in the prints as they are enlarged and faithfully transferred from the originals.

ENVELOPING is a woven series created by twisting and fastening a tubular structure made out of one piece of fabric. The subtle luster and supple texture of the material, woven with Japanese washi paper and polyester, brings out the depth and smoothness between the shadows of the drapes. It wraps around and adapts to the body creating an original silhouette for each wearer.

FIXED IN TIME is a series of pressed fabric inspired by the idea of capturing something in motion. The folds and angled shapes around the shoulders of the bold silhouette are the result of three-dimensional twists being flattened. Despite the voluminous silhouette, the series feels easy to wear, made possible by the use of lightweight, stretch material.

TWISTED is a woven series created by twisting a piece of fabric, as if naturally formed over the wearer’s body. This uniquely textured fabric is woven with natural fibers (Japanese washi paper and linen) and stretched fibers. SHAPED MEMBRANE is a woven series featuring exaggerated silhouettes, made from the same fabric that is lightweight and has a soft, stretch texture that feels like skin, lending itself to a voluminous and comfortable fit.

ISSEY MIYAKE x New Balance MT10O is a footwear collaboration created in line with the concept of barefoot mobility, complementing the sensuous physicality found in designer Satoshi Kondo’s design and making. The original model is brought back in a style and a colour palette that reflects the ISSEY MIYAKE collection theme, with the signature lightweight and barefoot fit.

Do look out for the upcoming pieces from the ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2024 Collection on Club21.